V Prototype DVT3 Teardown and Information

Step 1 Introduction


Notice that the colours on the prototype shell and kickstand don’t quite match. There’s also quite a lot of fingerprints, which makes the colour seem uneven.
Inverted triangle can be seen at the bottom of the kickstand.

Left USB-A, 2 x USB-C and headphone socket.

Right USB-A, volume buttons, power button with fingerprint reader and rear camera.
The prototype doesn’t have a protective lens for the rear camera.

Pogo pin connections at the bottom of the V.

MicroSDXC card slot underneath the kickstand.

Speaker grille and hole for microphone on the left and at the top of the V. Similar hole and grille on the right.

Apertures for the front camera and ambient light sensor on top of the display. That’s tape adhesive on the camera aperture.

Kickstand hinge – kickstand can be removed without opening the V, but hinges cannot.


Intel Core m3-7Y30 / Intel Core i5-7Y54 / Intel Core i7-7Y75


Intel SSD 600p 128 GB/256 GB/512 GB

Intel Dual Band wireless-AC 8265

Bluetooth 4.2
Miracast Wireless Display

1 x Thunderbolt 3 USB-C
1 x USB 3.1 Gen 1 USB-C
2 x USB 3.1 Gen 1 USB-A
1 x 3,5 mm Audio Socket
1 x MicroSDXC Card Reader

12,3 inch IGZO-TFT LCD, resolution 2736 x 1824,
1:1400 contrast ratio, 450 nits brightness

Gorilla Glass with anti-fingerprint and anti-reflection coating
Metal-mesh technology

Rechargeable Li-ion Battery
Rated capacity 6400 mAh / 48,64 Wh
Typical capacity 6600 mAh / 50,16 Wh
Rated voltage 7,6 V
Model YE12, Sunwoda Electronic CO., Ltd.

Fingerprint, Ambient light, Hall, Gravity, Gyroscope

Quad speakers, 1 W dedicated headphone jack
Audio amplifier Texas Instruments tpa6133
2 noise cancelling microphones

2 MP front and 5 MP rear

Windows Ink Certified N-trig, 1024 levels of pressure, 2 buttons

Pogo pin connected and Bluetooth 4.2 wireless backlit keyboard with
glass covered precision touchpad by Synaptics

295,9mm x 205,3mm x 8,9mm
Prototype tablet 916 grammes
Production tablet about 40 - 50 grammes less
Prototype Alcantara covered keyboard 397 grammes

Step 2 Teardown

The display on my prototype wasn’t glued, so cannot really give much advice how to get the display off.

But have a look at http://www.iFixit.com and their teardowns and repair manuals. There’s instruction videos and what kind of tools to use for display removal, buy them from iFixit’s store or probably cheaper at your local hardware store.

The production devices have a continuous plastic bezel going around the inside edges. The manufacturing and R&D people in China remove the display by starting to pry it off from the power button area/corner, but bottom looks also promising as the bezel is narrower there.

Photo below with picks shows the potentially best locations where to start the display removal.

Disassembly order (just an example, not the law)

After fully releasing the display, flip it upside down and disconnect the display from the motherboard.

The two middle connections are for the display. The left connector with white ribbon cable is a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) connector. It is quite easy to flip the latch open with your fingernail or a spudger.

In the photo below you can see how the ZIF connector latch is open. Now it’s easy to pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

It’s best to use some sort of a non-metallic, antistatic spudger for prying the metallic, flat-topped connector open (or just use your nails, if they are strong enough).

Here’s the flat-topped connector open.

And here’s the underside of the display.

And here’s what is revealed underneath that display. The marvelous components inside the V.

First things first (even if it’s really the second step), disconnect the battery. Connector hides under that blue bracket, pretty easy to spot, right? The bracket is covered with thin layer of blue plastic.

And here’s the bracket and also the piece of foam removed between the bracket and the battery connector.
I made that wooden spudger from a barbecue skewer, just cut the end off in an oblique angle. But hey, enough of my carpentry skills, the spudger lifts the battery connector easily from its place.

The battery connection wide open with all the constituent parts displayed.

Remove the SSD. Left of the SSD is the large headed screw (upside down) that attaches the SSD’s non-connector end to the V shell.

Remove the white and blue ribbon cable (underneath the SSD) between motherboard and PCB for power switch, volume switches and right USB-A.
In production devices this is a doglegged and black ribbon cable.

Remove ribbon cable between motherboard and SDXC reader PCB.

Remove SDXC card reader PCB. In the photo it’s unscrewed (three screws next to it) and only slightly moved from its original position.

Remove heatsink on the motherboard, here it’s unscrewed and removed. CPU is clearly visible in the middle, above the heatsink. Also visible on the left and right are the four brass coloured threaded studs, that the heatsink screws to.
Note that the production heatsink is larger, it extends all the way to the left.

Open ZIF connector for pogo pin connector ribbon cable. Most of the cable is under the battery.

Pry open flat-topped connectors for fingerprint reader and rear camera at the far right end of the motherboard.

Open connectors for the speakers and remove the speakers (left connector shown open).

It baffles me why the speaker chamber on the left is marked with R and the speaker chamber on the right with L. Maybe I’m looking the V the wrong way round…

Remove plastic bezels on the shell inner perimeter, bottom ones aren’t necessary to unscrew and be removed, but hey, it’s your call. And the right edge lower bezel is glued, so don’t try to remove it (but unscrew the screws, it’ll become apparent why later). Notice also the grounding tape for the left USB connectors tape on the left edge upper bezel.

Disconnect the WiFi antennas. Also disconnect the ZIF connectors for the front camera with ambient light sensor and microphones.
Don’t try removing the front camera as it is glued in its place and can break if removed by pulling from the top.
I managed to remove it once and the second time the top/lens casing came off.

Unscrew the motherboard and remove it.

Here’s a closeup of the front camera with ambient light sensor and microphones with ribbon cable assembly.

Remove the PCB with power switch, volume switches and right USB-A, you’ll have to pry (for example with a flat screwdriver) the glued bezel open from the top to free the PCB.

Remove rear camera, it lifts off easily. Here it is already removed, cavity can be seen on top corner of the V’s shell.

Remove the fingerprint reader/power button and volume buttons. Notice that it is retained in its place not just by their respective rectangular holes, but also by the three little pins

If you want, you can also remove the kickstand hinge on the left and remove just screws on the right hinge, so the kickstand and left hinge can be removed. Right kickstand hinge is difficult to remove as the glued bezel traps it.

Here is the front camera removed. It is possible to remove it by lifting up from the bottom with something thin, flat and narrow. The front camera casing isn’t glued together very well, and if you try to lift it off from the top, the casing may separate.

And here are the motherboard connections explained.
Type 1: Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) with hinged latch
Type 2: Flat-topped (low-profile) press fit (pop)
Type 3: Miniature coaxial receptacle/U.FL connector
Type 4: Battery multipole connector
Type 5: Speakers plug-in connector

And this is V almost fully disassembled (except battery and front camera with ambient light sensor plus a few other bits and bobs).

And here are few extra information tidbits (weights measured with an ordinary kitchen scales).
Heatsink weighs 28 grammes (with heatpad) and 27 grammes without and is made of 0,5 mm copper (underside covered with thin plastic/lacquer).
V shell (aluminium) weighs 540 grammes with kickstand and hinges, battery, magnets, heatpipe and heat plates, front camera and light sensor, WiFi antennas and wires, and plastic bezels on the bottom and lower right.
Display unit with cables weighs 259 grammes.
Assembled shell without display weighs 658 grammes.
The assembled V weighs 917 grammes.
Alcantara keyboard weighs 397 grammes.
Micro SD card reader PCB has also SIM capability.


  1. Reconnect the front camera with ambient light sensor (provided that you managed to get it off intact) and microphone with ribbon cable to the motherboard. Place the motherboard in its place. It may be easiest if the front edge is down and rear is slightly raised so that the pogo pin ribbon cable that comes from underneath the battery is easy to connect (it is short and stiff).
  2. Reattach the finger print reader and volume buttons – make sure that the assembly is behind the three small studs/pins.
  3. Place the rear camera in its cavity.
  4. PCB with power button switch, volume switches and USB-A, secure it down with the plastic bezel (two screws).
  5. Reattach the microSDXC card reader PCB to the case (three screws).
  6. Secure the right hand lower plastic bezel down (three screws). This was glued down so couldn’t be removed.
  7. Screw the motherboard in its place. Two screw holes are left empty (one to right from the processor in the middle and second to the down left from the processor on the edge of the PCB).
  8. Reconnect fingerprint reader and rear camera flat-topped connectors to the motherboard.
  9. Upper left (like letter J) plastic bezel (3 screws, top screw is longer), reattach the grounding tape to the exposed (bottom) USB-A connector.
  10. Reattach the left hand lower plastic bezel (3 screws).
  11. Reattach cable between the PCB with power switch, volume switches and USB-A and the motherboard (ribbon cable is left underneath the SSD).
  12. Reconnect the SSD and secure it down with one large headed screw.
  13. Reattach the speakers (both with 3 screws) and reconnect them to the main PCB.
  14. Reattach the two WiFi antenna wires to the WiFi radio on the main PCB.
  15. Reattach the plastic frame for front camera and light sensor (2 screws).
  16. Screw the heatsink on top of the main PCB (4 – 5 screws).
  17. Reattach the microSDXC card reader cable to the main PCB.
  18. Reattach the battery connector and secure down with the cushion, bracket and 2 screws.
  19. Sanity check: No extra part left over, all screws are tight, nothing is loose, all connectors connected?
  20. Reattach the two screen connectors to the main PCB.
  21. Best to try if everything works before reattaching the screen in its place.
  22. Reattach the screen in its place.
  23. Your V is again ready to rock ’n roll.

Very detailed teardown! The V Hype Train is real right now.


Awesome job! And well documented with photos, too. In the future, maybe the photos could be edited with some ink to point to the parts that are being referred to. Thanks for your hard work!


Incredible Post, very detailed.
Thankyou very much for taking the time to take all the pictures.

@mirv can u give us a picture from The other side of the Mainboard?

Great review! I really enjoy your pictures they are very detailed!
Thank you very much for your effort :smiley:

Maybe someone from @moderators could move this thread to Development / V Prototype Experiences? I think it should be located there.

Fantastic job! :heart_eyes:

It was better than iFixit, at least in my opinion, as I came to know a lot. :smiley: Your explanation and scheme about the different connectors made me understand what was really happening.

Maybe I just didn’t pay much attention to the iFixit ones but you made me have enthusiasm even for a teardown about hardware components - I think it’s difficult to get the attention of someone who knows little about hardware and how it all comes together. :joy:

A big thank you!! Maybe you could teach a thing or two to iFixit? :wink:


Excellent guide - thank you!

Very nice, thank you! @pauliunas mentioned that it’s best to start removing the display from the top down due to the plastic around the speakers. Is it the same with your prototype and does it make sense in your opinion? Because to me it sounds more reasonable to start at a plastic part to avoid breaking the inflexible screen.


Any specific reason for that? Unless something changed, the right bezel has more glue so it might not be a smart idea to be there, and also the sides are metal, which puts more tension on the glass…

If I can choose between starting at plastic and starting at metal, I’ll start at metal. The whole idea of most plastic prying tools is that they are soft enough to bend or burr before the thing you’re opening does. I’d rather the most tight prying happens in a place where there’s no chance of damaging the housing… (Yes, that means you’ll have to be more careful with the display.)


You see, the screen is put in so tight, there is no gap. No soft prying tool will help because you still have to, well, stick something into that tiny gap. If you start by plastic, the plastic bends and creates more room for your prying tool. Additionally, antenna is much cheaper to replace than the screen. So if I had to choose, I’d pick a broken antenna line any day over a broken screen.

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Maybe the mass production methods distribute glue differently than in the hand-produced prototype you worked with? Perhaps the area near the power button now has the same or less glue.

Thank you for your post, it is full of details but there is nothing about the GPS, is it normal?

It’s not about distribution, it’s because the metal behind the bezel is wider there. That’s because of the micro SD card slot.

@Giome yes this is normal, non-LTE units don’t have GPS.

That is as GPS is not natively supported (in a sense that the body was not designed to support GPS out of the box for the WIFI only model). The team’s statement all along was that with the current design a GPS signal retrieved would most likely be too weak to make use of it. And prototype testers confirmed that they were not able to find a GPS signal.
Thus the later LTE design will be the only one to support GPS on the spec sheet.

(but who knows, we might be in for a surprise… I’m still hoping that they found a way to make the current version retrieve a GPS signal)

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You have to explain me what is your problem??? Since our last conversation nothing changed. Don’t start a debate (again) I already know your feelings about this.
I mean there is no official thread about “give up the GPS in WiFi model”
This is a prototype so it should have the GPS chip to test it until a final official decision.
@Team please can you explain?

Here. Happy?
20 chars…


@SyrtakiVampir @pauliunas

How to get the display off?

The bezel design has changed from prototypes and so it’s pointless to speculate (as entertaining as it can be) with this at the moment as the best location to start prying on the production devices isn’t known.

@Konstantinos You’re flying back to China soon. Please, take (or task someone to take it for you) a nice, detailed photo of the actual production device with the bezels clearly showing.

The good news is, that there is going to be a production device teardown in the future i.e. when the latter shipments reach their customers. Not me, if you’re wondering. You all just have to be patient with this, I cannot unfortunately give any estimations when this teardown is going to get done.

However, the key to successful display removal is softening the glue so, that it can be pried open with plastic picks. I suspect that plastic and thin picks are going to be the only safe tools for the initial prying due to the shell edge design.

Below is a very rough sketch of the display, bezel and shell edge region. Not to scale at all, but there is a very tight gap between the display edge and the shell edge. It is pretty easy to conclude, that display removal isn’t going to be a stroll in the park.

How difficult is it in practice? We’ll see when the production device teardown emerges on the community pages.

And for “entertainment” purposes: Here’s a closeup photo of the unintentionally disassembled front camera.


Nope, from your photos I can see it’s the same as DVT1. And DVT3 has final hardware, except it’s hand-assembled.

BIG NO. The gap between glass and metal is too small, so NO PRYING!!! Only suction cups.

I was just trying to say that the right bezel has metal instead of plastic. At least in my unit, glue sticks much better there.

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